This post is sponsored by HomeRight. All ideas and opinions are 100% my own. This post contains affiliate links.

How to Stain and Seal Furniture with a Sprayer!

Make Any Needed Repairs

I needed to replace the 3 worst boards. when I built the table top, I assembled it using pocket holes and screws. It was easy to unscrew the warped boards and add in the new. The last board needed to be tapped in with a mallet for a nice, tight fit. If your wood furniture piece has dents or ding, fill them with wood putty. Make sure to use a stainable type of putty.

Sand

I used a belt sander to sand all the way down to the bare wood. A belt sander is the best way to sand it all the way down FAST. This not only strips it of any old stain and sealer, but helped even it out and make it smooth. Just don't sand in one spot too long since it "eat" through the wood faster than a palm sander. Start with a heavy grit like 80 or 100. Then move to a 120 or 150. I like to finish off with a 220 but I hand sand instead of using a sander. Once it has been sanded completely, vacuum up the dust and wipe it down with a damp rag.

Stain with a Sprayer!

I love using a sprayer to stain! Especially for large areas like a fence. I chose a dark walnut stain and filled my airless sprayer up about ⅓ of the way since my table top is not very large. The Super Finish Max has multiple spray tips. For stains and sealers, use the blue spray tip.

I was staining on my grass, but if you are working someplace like a driveway or garage, use drop cloth to protect your work space. Use painter’s tape to cover any parts that are not being stained or sealed to protect from any possible overspray.

Use a scrap piece of cardboard or wood to test the spray. Adjust as needed to get a thin spray that will cover without puddling. Light coats

are best. Spray slowly in even strokes to get uniform coverage. You can adjust the spray pattern on your Super Finish Max. I like to have it flat and vertical for this type of project.

Allow the wood stain to soak in for 10 minutes (or whatever time it states on the can) before wiping off any excess stain . If you want your furniture piece to be darker, allow the stain to dry and add a second coat. Repeat the same steps above.

Applying Sealer with a Sprayer!

Every stained piece of furniture needs a protective coat. There are many types. If you use a water based stain, it is best to use a water based sealer. Just like if you use an oil based stain, you should use an oil based sealer. Oil based sealers will be more durable. I prefer to use a fast drying oil based polyurethane in a satin finish. Oil based sealers tend to have a more yellow tint while waterbased are more of an actual clear coat.

I shared in previous posts (when I made plate charges for Thanksgiving and when I refreshed my front door) how easy it is to use a sprayer to apply sealer to wood. I used polyurethane for my kitchen table using my Super Finish Max as well. Just like when you stain, make sure to wear a mask. Eyewear is also a good idea, especially if you are not outside in a well ventilated area.

I adjusted the spray so very little sealer was coming out. I prefer to do many thin coats as opposed to one thick coat. You will get a much more professional finish if you are patient and apply thin coats.

Using a sprayer means no need to worry about brush strokes!

Sand In Between Coats

In order for each additional layer of sealer to properly adhere to each other, you need to lightly sand in between each thin coat. I use a fine grit sandpaper (220 grit). Be careful not to sand too much in one area or too hard or you run the risk of sand through the finish & stain and exposing bare wood again. If that happens, re-stain the area and wait for it to dry before adding more sealer.

The first coat of sealer will sink in and may look uneven. Just like with the first coat of primer or paint, it is okay that it doesn't look perfect. Adding the first coat of sealer may also raise the grain and make the wood feel rough. That is alright too! Sanding helps even and smooth out the first coat.

You do not want to skip the sanding step. I know it is tempting because you just want the project done already. Early on in my staining and sealing experience, I skipped the sanding step my first time, thinking it would be fine. The finish start flaking months later.

I recommend for something that gets light wear and tear to use at least 2 layers of sealer. If it is something that will get lots of wear, add at least 3 layers.

Cleaning Your Sprayer

When cleaning your sprayer after using an oil based product, make sure to use paint thinner, mineral spirits, or brush cleaner. Wear gloves! I have an old bucket that is designated as my clean up bucket. Clean your sprayer thoroughly. Properly dispose of the cleaner according to the instruction on the container. I like to fill the sprayer part way with the cleaner, plug it in, and run the cleaner through the sprayer to make sure all the parts get clean.

The Reveal!

I love how the darker color looks!

The darker color not only ties in the door, but brings out the darker parts of the flooring.

Refinishing furniture takes a bit of elbow grease and time, but it is worth it in the end! Not only can you save a beloved piece of furniture, updating it for you currently taste and style, but you can save so much money. You can stain and seal indoor furniture, outdoor furniture, fences, privacy screens and so much more! Do you have any other tips on how to stain and seal furniture with a sprayer?

GIVEAWAY!

Enter to win a Super Finish Max sprayer below using the rafflecopter widget!

You must be at least 18 years old to enter. You must be a resident of the USA to enter. The giveaway will go from April 28, 2022 until May 5, 2022.  The winner will be chosen by random.org and will be notified by email. The winner will have 48 hours to respond before a new winner will be chosen. The shipping of the prize is the responsibility of the company, in this case HomeRight.

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This post is sponsored by HomeRight but all ideas and opinions are 100% my own. This post contains affiliate links.

Before Building a Backyard Gate:

I wanted this one to match the other two gates we have in the yard (The Secret Garden Gate and the Planter Box Gate) so I build the gate and then made it rounded at the top. I even have a little tip to make that process easier!

Building A Backyard Gate

I went ahead and built a basic frame for a gate. A rectangle out of 2x4s with a cross board from corner to corner for added support. The frame was shorter than what the finished gate would be. I bought enough pickets to cover both sides.

Once all the pickets were screwed onto the frame, I marked where the top of the arch needed to be and where the frame ended (see arrows on photos).

Using string, a tack, and a pencil, you can create an arch connecting those two marks. Play around with the placement of the string to see how how far down the string needs to be tacked in order to get the correct angle.

My tip to make things a bit easier is to nail on a board before you cut the first arch. This creates a pattern that you can use to trace on the other side of the gate to get a matching curve. *Make sure to flip it over to get a mirror image just in case your arch isn't perfect.

Staining A Backyard Gate

Once the cuts were made, I sanded the gates so there weren't any rough spots or splinters. Then they were ready to stain!

I draped a plastic tarp over our fence to protect it and the grass from any overspray. Adding scrap pieces of wood under the gates help prop them up and makes it easier to spray the bottoms.

Using the Super Finish Max sprayer from HomeRight, I stained the gates. I will never again use a brush to stain large surfaces. I first stained our fence with the HomeRight sprayer YEARS ago, and I will never go back to staining large surfaces with a brush or roller. A sprayer is the only way to go. Seriously.

The Super Finish Max sprayer is available on Amazon.

I chose the same dark color I stained the sliding living wall earlier this year.

The crystal knob hardware is the same as the Secret Garden gate and I am in love with how it turned out!

Here's a look from the other side...

The gate also means that now our yard is 100% fenced and gated in. Our dog, Kevin, can roam free. It also means that as long as we keep it closed (*cough* kids *cough*), stray dogs won't get in to bother our chickens and deer will stay out of the garden.

Building a backyard gate for the arch has been on our to-do list for years. It is one of those projects that as soon as it is done, you think "Why didn't we do this sooner?"

What is on your to-do list that you have been putting off?

Stained Dutch Door

Custom Door From Woodgrain

I ordered this stunning mahogany door through the same company I got the new baseboards through when I did my new flooring last year. Woodgrain has a TON of doors to choose from and you can find a dealer in your area HERE. I chose to have a simple design to match the interior doors that are original to the home. I wanted windows to let more light in the kitchen. My old cheap door had windows and I liked that a lot.

Gah! Isn't she gorgeous? I love this stained Dutch door!

I'll share more after shots in a minute, but first I wanted to share the process of finishing the door.

Cutting The Door

The door came in one piece. I called a local door company and had them cut it in half. If the door was going to be an interior door, then I could have simply cut it in half with a circular saw, but since it is an exterior door, you need a special cut that overlaps each other with a weather strip to make it waterproof. You'll be able to see what I mean in the photos of it with just the top open.

Stained Dutch Door

I sanded the door with a 220 grit sandpaper to get it as smooth as possible. Then I vacuumed the dust off with the brush attachment. If I would have wiped it with a wet rag, it may have raised the grain. Su either vacuum or brush off the dust with a dry rag.

I added oil based wood conditioner so the stain would absorb more evenly.

After a few minutes, wipe off the extra wood conditioner. Now you are ready to stain!

I chose a dark walnut color so it would match my rounded front door. I applied it with a foam brush and let it sit for about 10 minutes before wiping off the excess stain.

Sealing The Door

Let's chat about sealers...

One side of this door would be inside and the other half would face outside so I applied 2 different sealers. On the outside I applied a spar urethane (Helmsman by Minwax). This door faces south and there isn't a covering on the porch, so it is very exposed to sunlight and moisture. Spar urethane is the best type of sealer for UV rays and moisture. It has more resin in it which makes it a bit more yellow. It also has more of a smell. It says interior/exterior on the label but because of the lingering smell (which goes away after a week or two) and the extra yellow tint, I choose to only use it for exterior projects. For the inside of the door I used polyurethane.

With any sealer, always sand in between coats. Use 220 grit sandpaper and just lightly sand until it is hazy. Sand with the grain.

I did three coats on the exterior and two on the inside. I used my sprayer but you can also brush the sealer on as well.

Isn't she a beaut?

One reason I wanted a Dutch door was because of Kevin. Bless his canine heart, he barks every time someone comes to the door. The kitchen door is the one all the neighborhood kids come to. Having the lower part of the door closed helps the kids who are a little nervous around Kevin. Then I don't have to hold him back with my foot awkwardly so he doesn't sniff them to death ;)

The latch, when slid down into place, keeps the door together and it opens just like a regular door.

You guys! This glass is SEEDED! That means it has tiny bubbles in it. I am obsessed with seeded glass. Anytime I see a jar, light shade, or anything else with seeded glass I buy it just for that reason. This glass also has waves and looks antique. This is a horrible picture, but glass with light shining through it is a bugger to photograph without it looking blown out. It is much more sparkly and glorious in person.

The knob and deadbolt are from Home Depot. It is made by Schlage and the design is from the Addison trim line in matte black.

What are your thoughts on Dutch doors? What about a painted door versus stained Dutch Door?

I was compensated for this post by Woodgrain but the ideas, choices, and opinions are 100% my own.

This post was sponsored by HomeRight. All project ideas and opinions are 100% my own.

Wood Burned Chargers

Some links are affiliate links :)

Supplies:

1x12 boards

Wood Conditioner

Wood Stain

Foam Brushes

Paper Towels

Wood Burner

Lettering Set

HomeRight Quick Finish Sprayer

Polyacrylic 

I used a sis foot 1x12 board but this would be a perfect way to use up scrap wood. If you do not have a table saw or a sliding miter saw, you can have Home Depot make the cuts for you in the store. Since 1x12s are actually 11.25" I cut them to 11.25" long to create a square.

Once they were cut, I sanded them really well. Sanding helps open the pores so it will accept stain better as well as softens the edges.

After I wiped off the dust, I applied some wood conditioner. If you are using a water-based stain, use a water-based conditioner. Same goes for oil based. The conditioner makes it so the stain will go on more evenly. Pine tends to be super blotchy so you can use all the help you can get!

Staining

Let the condition sink in for a bit and then wipe off any excess. You are now ready to stain! I chose this nice warm color that would be slightly darker than my table but still light enough that the wood burning would show. I used a foam brush for these but did you know you can also use a sprayer to apply stain? It is especially helpful on larger stain projects!

I let the stain sit for about 10 minutes before wiping off the excess with paper towels. If it is not as dark as you would like, apply a second coat once it has dried to the touch.

Wood Burning

When the stain is dry, it is time to wood burn! You can pick up a wood burner at any craft store or on Amazon. They are very inexpensive and I use mine quite often. They would make a great gift for the crafter in your life. I bought the lettering set as well and have used that more than the regular tips. I made wood reusable name tags last year for Christmas!

I couldn't decide if I wanted to personalize them or have a holiday themed word so I did both! Why not make them reversible?! Then you can use them all year.

Sealing

I sealed them with a polyacrylic sealer. Did you know you can use polyurethane and polyacrylic in the HomeRight Sprayers? You will get the perfect finish every time.

I am about to use the sprayer to seal our new kitchen door...eeek! That will be coming to the blog soon.

I love the satin sheen!

Instead of bless(ed) & Thank(ful), you could also do Christmas words like joy and noel for these wood burned chargers. I kind of like the idea of white washing them too so the letters stand out even more. What do you think?

Instead of name card, you could have personalized chargers!

It is such an easy DIY and one that your kids could help with. You could whips out a ton of them in no time. I only had one board on hand but I will be making some for my whole family this weekend (since it will be warming up again)!

What are your Thanksgiving plans this year?

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The Gates Before

Remove Hardware

First I removed the hardware. They were still in good shape so I spray painted them black and they looked good as new.

Sand

I sanded the gates to remove and flakes of stain and to make it smooth.

Clean Them Up!

After I sanded both sides of the gates, I hosed them off to remove all the dust and dirt.

Time to Stain

I draped a plastic tarp over the fence and propped the gates up against it. I filled my Super Finish Max (affiliate) with Dark Walnut stain and sprayed them. When you are done, make sure to clean the sprayer with soap and water if it was a water based paint or stain and with mineral spirits if it was an oil based paint or stain.

After they dried, I added new knobs and with Shane's help, I got them back up.  If you missed the reveal of the Secret Garden with raised beds, you can check it out HERE.

I love how the dark brown looks against all the greenery.

If you have staining and painting projects on your list, I have a chance for you to win a Super Finish Max so you can knock them out FAST!

You must be at least 18 years old to enter. You must be a resident of the USA to enter. The giveaway will go from June 19, 2019 until June 25, 2019. A winner will be chosen by random.org and will be notified by email. The winner will have 48 hours to respond before a new winner will be chosen. The shipping of the prize is the responsibility of the company, in this case, HomeRight.

a Rafflecopter giveaway

This post was sponsored by HomeRight but all ideas and opinions are 100% my own :)

The Fastest Way To Stain A fence

When we first moved here we installed a small fence to separate our front yard from the back and I used a brush. It took me all afternoon for less than 20 feet of fence! A paint sprayer is the only way to go. It is so much faster and WAY less messy.

Tip #1

I chose to use my HomeRight Super Finish Max. (affiliate link) It has a larger container and holds more stain which mean less refilling. I used the blue tip that is meant for stains.

You can find the tip chart on the HomeRight website and in the owner's manual.

I chose a warm gray stain. Partly because I really like gray and also because when the fence naturally ages, it will turn gray. My hope is that as the stain starts to fade over time, it will be less noticeable because of the weathering of the wood.

Tip #2

Mix and stir! I had some stain that we bought after installing the fence (we had good intentions to get started right away) and a couple of cans we bought this weekend. I knew even though it was the same color, that formulas change over the years. Plus with different people mixing it, it could potentially be slightly different, so I poured them all into a 5 gallon bucket. I was right, one batch was slightly darker.

Use a paint stick and stir every time you fill the canister. This will ensure and even color each time.

Tip #3

I started at the top and sprayed four pickets wide, back and forth, and slightly overlapping. Adjust the sprayer so that just enough stain comes out to cover the wood.

Tip #4

Wear gloves and mask. When filling the container, I tend to get a little stain on my hands. I have paper towels handy too in case I drip it down the side of the can or the container. It was breezy the day I stained and sometimes it blew a mist of stain in my direction. I ended up putting on one of those inexpensive face masks and it helped.

It was actually really fun to spray and see the progress happening so quickly! Listen to a podcast and you'll be done in no time.

HomeRight is offering to giveaway a Super Finish Max to one lucky reader. Think of all the outdoor projects you can do!

Enter below using the Rafflecopter widget. Please email me if you have any issues entering. (notjustahousewife@yahoo.com)

a Rafflecopter giveaway

You must be at least 18 years old to enter. You must be a resident of the USA to enter. The giveaway will go from May 5, 2019 until May 12, 2019. A winner will be chosen by random.org and will be notified by email. The winner will have 48 hours to respond before a new winner will be chosen. The shipping of the prize is the responsibility of the company, in this case, HomeRight.

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This post is sponsored by HomeRight but all ideas and opinions are 100% my own.

I wanted to make it easy to use so it has pegs that you move around as you score. My youngest had just as much fun moving the pegs as he did playing the game!

DIY Outdoor Scoreboard

Supplies:

*links are affiliate

Plywood cut to desired size

⅜" wood dowel

2 large wood beads  (or cut out 2 3" circles)

Paint

Stain

Foam brushes

Painters tape

Stencils

Helmsman Spar Urethane

Rope

It really is very easy. Even the pegs! I had some large wooden beads left over from a previous project. You can find them in any craft store or online. I cut 3 inch pieces of ⅜" dowels. I had to use a ⅜" drill bit to make the holes in the beads a tiny bit bigger. Then I used a hammer to fore the dowel all the way through to the other side. I spray painted them when I was done.

For the actual scoreboard, I cut a scrap piece of plywood to 20" x 30", sanded it, and stained it a warm brown.

Once the stain was dry, I stenciled the letters and numbers.

To help the number stand out, and to tie in the black stripes, I outlined the numbers and letters with a black marker. It was tedious and definately optional, but I think it really took the scoreboard up a notch.

I waited to drill the holes for the pegs until I had the numbers on so I could make sure the holes were centered under the numbers. You have to be careful when drilling large holes in plywood. Plywood tends to get ripped up while drilling. Two things help with this. Drill slowly and put painters tape over the area before drilling. I forgot about the tape trick until I had already drilled one hole. I added tape for the rest of the holes.

The holes got outlined as well with a black marker.

It still needs to be sealed. I couldn't find my Helmsman spar urethane (outdoor sealer ) before it was time to take photos for this post. Of course I found it as soon as I was done. Go figure!

My kids didn't waste any time putting the DIY outdoor scoreboard to good use. As soon as it was put up on the fence, they were shouting "I'm team blue!"

Here are the other talented ladies who are participating in the outdoor game challenge. Head over and see their creative DIY games!

Addicted 2 DIY

RemodelaCasa

The Created Home

Anika's DIY Life

The Inspired Workshop

The Awesome Orange

Stacy Risenmay

My Repurposed Life

Ugly Duckling House

100 Things 2 Do

Joyful Derivatives

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I found the ottoman first (a mere $350) and was going to make a knock off of it but I really had my heart set on making a bench so I found one very similar.

I am not very experienced in the whole "knock off project" thing. I have only ever done one (the Pottery Barn Star) and I made it exactly like the inspiration image. This time, I wanted to use a different fabric other than gray and I wanted the wood base to be a bit thicker. So I hope that even though I made a few small changes, that this is still considered a knock off :)

Supplies

*Some links are affiliate

(2) pieces of ¾" plywood cut   17" x 44" or your own desired size

High density foam cut to 18" x 45"

1x3 boards

(4) Tapered wood legs

(4) Leg plates

Fabric of choice

How to make a DIY Modern Bench

Step 1

I used a kitchen knife to cut the foam. I cut it slightly bigger than the board so it would overhang slightly on all sides. I did that so that the fabric would be snug and not loose.

I bought this fun black and white geometric fabric from Joann's. I got it for 70% off!

Step 2

I don't have any photos of me sewing the cover because well, I hate sewing and it stresses me out. I didn't even think about photos. I was just trying to survive. I cut a piece for the top, pieces for the side, and pieces for the ends. I sewed them all together sort of creating a fabric "box" than would easily slip over the foam. The key to having everything lay fat and look nice is to iron the seams flat.

You can see how by sewing it you get clean lines versus just folding and tucking the fabric. It was worth sewing, even though I don't like it ;)

Step 3

I actually used MDF for the bottom of my foam since that is what I had on hand. MDF or plywood would both work. I gently pulled the fabric around the edge and stapled it to the bottom.

You can see in the bottom photo that the foam part is bigger than the MDF and the plywood for the base. This is perfect because you will add the 1x3 boards as trim on the plywood base.

Step 4

I decided that the 1x3 boards were a bit too thick so we rip cut them down to 2". When I glued and nailed them to the side of the plywood, I made it so it hung down a bit so it would hide the leg plates.

After the trim was added , it looked like a really big serving tray.

Step 5

I stained the legs and base a nice medium brown. My trick to make sure the color is not too orange is to add a coat of gray stain first followed by a brown stain like Provincial, Early American, or Walnut.

Once the stain was dry I added a few coats of poly, making sure to sand in between coats.

Step 6

Wne  the poly was dry, I flipped over the base and screwed on the leg plates and then screwed in the legs to the plates. I flipped it back over and inserted the cushion.

I couldn't be happier with the results! I can't decide if it will go in the living room, the office, or my son's room.

The living room is hard to shoot in the morning will all the sun coming in the front window. I kind of  like it with the leather pillow and the pillow I weaved.

But I think it makes the most sense to have this DIY modern bench in the office under the coat rack. The shoes are stored in crates to the left and the kids can have a place to sit to take off and put on their shoes. Plus the black and white striped floors go well with the geometric design in the fabric.

Have you ever recreated something you saw that was too pricey? I'd love to hear about your knock off projects in the comment below and if it was a success!

Here are the other people participating in this knock of challenge. Stop by and see their projects!

Addicted 2 DIY

RemodelaCasa

Woodshop Diaries

The Inspired Workshop

The Awesome Orange

DIY Huntress

Reality Daydream

She was over the bar height table and bar stools. I told her I could cut the legs down. She didn't love the stain color and the spots where her daughter spilled fingernail polish remover. Easy. Sand the top down to the bare wood. She wanted white legs to brighten up her space. Super easy. Paint :)

This was the table in her previous house.

I first approached this table makeover like I have others in the past. I grabbed my sander and started with a heavy grit sandpaper. I soon discovered that the top was not solid wood, but in fact a thin layer of wood veneer over plywood and then a layer of real wood. I found this out when a spot along the edge sanded down past the veneer. I knew I was going to have to do things a bit differently.

Here are my tips for refinishing a wood veneer table!

Removing the Old Finish

If I would have realized it was veneer beforehand, I probably would have used a stripper first. Then I would have hand sanded it the rest of the way.

Since I already had sanded ¼ of the table, I kept using the sander. BUT I switched out my heavy grit sandpaper for a medium grit (120 or 150). It made it go a bit slower but also made it so I didn't go through the veneer.

Be careful around the edges. There's a tendency to use more pressure around the edges and it wears them down more. The couple of places I sanded through the veneer were both along the edge. I ended up leaving the edges for last and doing most of it by hand. Since it is a thin veneer, it went faster than you might think.

Once you are done with the sander and the majority of the previous finish is gone, wipe off the dust. Get a 220 grit sand paper and sand the whole top by hand to get a very smooth finish. The sander will leave small (almost undetectable) marks in the raw wood. When you go to stain they will will become more noticeable. Doing this last step of hand sanding will make all the difference in your finished project.

Get really close and look to make sure all marks are gone. Sometimes wiping it down with a wet rag will mimic staining and allow you to see the areas that still have sander marks.

Staining and Sealing

Once it is all sanded, you are ready to stain! Since my sister's dream table had a grayish brown finish, I used Weather Oak by Minwax. I did two layers of stain and once it was completely dry, I sealed it with polyurethane.

Tabletops take a lot of wear and tear so it is recommended to do three coats of poly. Follow the directions and lightly sand between each coat for the best finish.

At first I was worried about cutting the legs since they are tapered and wouldn't lay flat on my miter saw. I was worried they would be slightly off from each other and the table would wobble. When we went to take the legs off to cut them, we realized they had adjustable feet. So after we cut them we added the adjustable feet back on and they helped balance out any imperfections with the cuts. So if you are shortening legs, add adjustable feet! Easy way to make sure your furniture won't wobble.

I am really happy with how it turned out and more importantly, my sister is too. She ended up buying new chairs and I think the new metal chairs fit the table much better.

I think the gray stain paired with the bright white legs is gorgeous!

Another thing she did to update her builder grade home was to buy all new lights. It took us all day to shop around for deals. I am a cheapskate even when it's not my money ;)

Have you ever refinished a table? What about refinishing a wood veneer table? What are you best tips.? I'd love to know so share in the comments!

Even though I blogged about it 6 years ago, I still get emails all the time asking if I have a tutorial for the crate I built that was in my living room. It was the first thing I built from scratch and I built it a long time before I started blogging, so I didn't have a tutorial. Now that I am splitting up the boys into two different rooms, I need more storage. The crate I built years ago is going in one room and so I thought I would build another toy box crate for the other room. They are easy to build and you can customize it to be the size you want!

Just like the original, I was going for a bit of a rustic look. I didn't worry if the boards had dents or if they didn't align perfectly. In fact, with the original crate, I purposely cut the boards slightly different lengths to achieve that look.

The crate is made up primarily of 1x4s. There are no fany cuts so you can use a hand saw, miter saw, or circular saw.

Cut List:

(8) 1x4 boards cut to 13 ¾"

(16) 1x4 boards cut to 31 ¾" (so I could get 3 per 8 foot board)

(4) 1" square dowel pieces cut to 14"

(4) ¾" square dowel pieces cut to 31 ¾"

After sanding each board, I got to work building the crate. I used a brad nailer and wood glue for most of the assembly. The 1" square dowels are for each corner.

Another method to build crates is to use pocket holes. I have done that for planter boxes but chose not to do that for this box since they would be visible (since I am not filling it up with dirt).

I did use pocket holes for the lid however. You won't be able to see them though. You'll see why in just a bit.

Because the shorter side pieces sit on top of the bottom slats, that makes them a little higher that the front and back. No problem! A ¾" dowel fits perfectly. Add one to the front and back plus to each side of the lid.

Pine is soft and very porous. In order to get even coverage and avoid blotchiness, use a wood conditioner before staining. If you are using an oil based stain, use and oil based conditioner. If you are using water based stain, there is a water based conditioner.

Use your choice if stain color. My favorite colors are Provincial, Early American, Dark Walnut, and Weathered Oak. But really you can go wrong with any of Minwax's stain colors.

The more coats you add, the darker it will be. Make sure to follow the instructions on the can and wait the appropriate amount of time between coats.

I started out using Early American but after one coat decided I wanted it darker and used Provincial for the second coat.

I added some hinges. I happened to have some non mortise hinges but you can use butt hinges or a continuous hinge as well.

I used some lattice trim to cover the pocket holes. You can also see the ¾" dowels on the lid. I attached them with a little glue and a few brad nails.

My favorite products to seal and protect a wood project are the Fast Drying Polyurethane and the Wipe-On Poly. I like the satin finish but it also comes in gloss.

This crate could be used to store so many things other than toys. When the original crate was in our family room it help blankets at one point, then board games The possibilities are endless!

I will be doing the photo shoot for kid bedroom #1 today! I am DYING to share it with you. I love it when all the stars align and a project turns out better than you even hoped it would. Now finger's crossed room #2 works out just as well :)

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This post was sponsored by Minwax but all project ideas and opinions are all my own.

My youngest picked out a 99 cent stuffed mouse from IKEA one time when he was about three years old. He named him Mousey and he has been his friend ever since. Actually we are on Mousey #3 since they can only be washed about 89 times before looking really sad. I think my son likes to imagine that he is alive and his little buddy. He carries him in his pocket all the time. He even sneaks him to church sometimes. My son loves to read books about mice and especially loves The Mouse and the Motorcycle.  He even requested a mouse birthday party last year!

He and his brothers also like the book The Indian in the Cupboard, where a toy Indian figurine comes alive when placed in a special cupboard. Since my son is at that age where he is not a fan of things that are "girly" and pink, I thought that creating a house for his mouse that was like the magical cupboard in the book would be a fun twist.

I headed to the Habitat for Humanity ReStore to look for a cupboard. While I didn't find one the size I wanted, I did find a whole wall of cabinet doors. I found one that I liked and figured it would be easy to build a box and shelves to go with it. I shared pictures on my Insta Stories of the wall of doors. It was quite impressive!

I picked a tall door so I would have enough space for three rooms. I didn't want it too big because I knew that he would want to move it around. He likes to play in whatever room I am in  or where his brothers are.  I think 6 inches deep and 2 feet tall is perfect!

I used Minwax's Dark Walnut oil based stain for the door and cabinet box.

Once it was dry, I painted the inside white. I really wanted the house to have a lot of fun details so I added real wood floors! I cut the ends off of popsicle sticks and used wood glue to adhere them to the top two floors.

I figured Mousey is a pretty trendy mouse, so I went with a gray toned floor that seems to be so popular right now. I used one of my go-to colors of stain, Weathered Oak. It is such a pretty color!

I also stained some wooden beads that would become the feet to make swinging the door open easier. When the cabinet box, door, feet, and floors were all dry, I sealed them with polyurethane. I waited for the first coat to dry then sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper, wipe it down, and added a second coat.

Once they were all dry, I added the feet and added hinges to the door. I really wanted a knob with a keyhole to be like the actual cupboard in the book, but I settled for this old looking pewter one from Hobby Lobby.

It didn't take long for Mousey to feel at home!

He has a kitchen, a living room, and a bedroom!

My favorite things in the living room are the gallery wall and the TV with a tiny remote! The drawer on the table opens and the remote fits inside. I made some of the items for the house out of clay and others I ordered (like most of the furniture). I had fun creating and printing off tiny art for all the frames.

This kitchen! I loved the little set of appliances I ordered but they were all white. I didn't want them to blend in with the mouse or the walls so I painted them silver (stainless steel). I love that the stove and under the sink open and can be used to store the extra pots and pans as well as dishes.

I made some food out of polymer clay while watching Hallmark Christmas movies. I think I will make some more so his poor little fridge won't look so bare :)

I stayed up one night (because I could only work when my son was gone or sleeping) to sew bedding, the apron, the chef hat, and this night cap. While I don't love sewing, I have to admit it was pretty fun!

We are a family of readers so it is no surprise that Mousey likes to read as well.

I was obsessed with dollhouses and all things tiny when I was a little girl. Since I have all boys, I didn't think that dollhouses were in my future. When my son asked for a house for his mouse, I knew it would be so fun to make that happen.

Minwax has more project ideas on their site as well as more details about their Made With Love Campaign.

Do your children or grandchildren have a dollhouse? Or did you play with them as a child? I'd love to hear your stories or memories!

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This post was sponsored by Minwax but all ideas and opinions are 100% my own!

I built these shelves the same way I built the shelves for my friends laundry room. I used plywood for the outer part. Normally I would build the shelves and then stain them but this time, after cutting the pieces for the shelves, I stained them first before assembling them. I was worried about getting stain or polyurethane on the gorgeous wallpaper. Unlike with painted walls, I would not be able to do any touch ups.

I used one of my favorite go to stains, Provincial, by Minwax.

Once I wiped on the stain and let it sit for a bit, I used paper towels to wipe off the excess.

Once the stain had dried, I sealed it with two coats of satin polyurethane. I sanded in between coats with 220 grit sandpaper.

Since these shelves were on the small side, I used 2x2s instead of 2x4s to build the support frame. Once it was screwed together, I attached it to the wall making sure to screw into studs. The pieces of plywood were then attached to the top, bottom, and front with a brad nailer.

Normally I use stainable wood putty but since I had already stained and sealed the wood, I used this wood putty.

Look closely. Along the front of the drawer under the jar of putty is a hole that was filled. It is hard to see since the putty blends in so well!

Choose a color that is close to the stain color. It is soft and waxy and goes into the nail hole easily. I used an old rag to buff off the excess. You can't even tell there were nail holes!

You don't have to wait for the putty to dry. Once the holes were filled I was able to fill the shelves up!

I love how the towels, baskets, and bins look against the wallpaper! You can read about the wallpaper installation and where I bought it in this bathroom post.

I'll be photographing the rest of the bathroom to share this week. I am SO HAPPY with how it turned out, even if it took forever to finally get there.

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This post was sponsored by Minwax but all the ideas and opinions are all mine.

Even if I didn't want to, I would have HAD to build this vanity because our bathroom is so small and the vanity that was in here before was custom and much smaller (depth wise) than one you just buy. If I bought one from a store, it would have not left us with enough space between the bathtub and the vanity. Luckily I found a sink at IKEA that was a good fit for our extra shallow vanity. I did find some wall mounted vanities and ones with legs at IKEA that might have worked depth wise but since we have the laundry chute, I couldn't go with one that showed the floor. Plus, I of course have a "vision" of what it needed to look like.

I wanted to build this vanity out of a hardwood instead of pine. I purchased some ash wood from a lumberyard in SLC. It comes in rough cut form, meaning it has rough edges and has not gone through a planer. The boards are also all different widths and lengths. It took a lot more effort to build this because of that. Shane and I had to rip cut 1x2s instead of just buying 1x2 boards. Usually I fly solo for furniture builds but this time I pulled out two saws and Shane and I both cut and cut. There was a lot of sanding too and Shane stepped in to help one evening with that as well.

I built the face frame out of the 1x2s we cut.

Getting the doors and drawer fronts to be inset and fit (almost) perfectly was kind of difficult. I cut the doors and drawer fronts as close to the size as I could and sanded them until they fit with room for the hinges and to open and close without rubbing.  Pardon the crappy cell phone picture. I was so unbelievably covered in sawdust and I didn't want to risk getting any in my nice camera.

The sides are three boards glued together with a notch cut out for the toe kick. After building the base and attaching it to the wall, I added a 1x4 to the wall that then got attached to the sides with pocket holes.

Pardon the mess, but those boxes hold some fun things!

I added the face frame and faux drawer also by screwing through pocket holes. A divider was added in between the door area and the drawers. I decided since the old cabinet had wood rungs for the drawers and all the builtins in our house do too, that that was how I would do the drawers. Plus it made it easier for me to do the drawer fronts in the style I wanted.

Once it was all built, I used pre-stain conditioner on the base, doors, and drawers. If you are going to be using oil based stain, make sure to use the oil based conditioner.

I always test out stains on a scrap piece of wood before using it on the actual project. Each species of wood will take stain differently and while one stain looks one way on pine, it may look different on ash. I tested out all my favorite go-to colors from Minwax and decided that I loved the Weathered Oak paired with Provincial. Here is how I did it!

I started out with one coat of Weathered Oak. I almost stopped there and kept it as is, but because ash has more red/pink undertones, it came off a bit pink. But I was tempted!

Next I got the Provincial stain and brushed on a coat. Instead of waiting the 10 minutes for it to soak in like is suggested, I wiped it off with paper towels after only a minute or so. I really love the medium brown tone with a hint of gray!

I waited 24 hours for the stain to completely dry before applying the polyurethane. I chose the satin finish because I didn't want it very shiny.

After adding the hardware I may or may not have sat in my bath tub and just stared at the vanity. It came out just like I had envisioned!

This weekend is Labor day weekend and I will be spending it adding the new light, mirror, faucet, and baseboards! I will also be returning this sink because when we opened the box, we noticed the corner was badly chipped. I set it on the vanity for the photoshoot but will need to go get a new one.

The two biggest things are done, the tile floor and the vanity, so now I get to do all the fun little stuff! I can't wait to show you the finished space! More importantly, I can't wait to not have to share the TINY down bath will 5 guys :)

UPDATE: Here is the post with the faucet, mirror and light installed. Upstairs Bathroom Renovation: One Step Closer 

What will you be doing this holiday weekend? 

Make sure and check out the Made With Love campaign by Minwax!

This project was sponsored by Minwax but all ideas and opinions are all my own!

I shared what the back of my yard looked like in a previous post, but as a reminder here are a couple of shots.

This was one of those times I was extra grateful I have four boys because I put them to work leveling the ground. Our yard slopes towards the center and I knew we needed these boxes to be level. It took days and days of all of us shoveling but we finally had it ready to build on!

Shane and I started out by measuring and setting posts. It was very similar to setting fence posts only it formed a box instead of just a line. The we added 2x2 boards to connect the posts. After that all we had to do was add cedar pickets! We bought regular 6-foot fence pickets and cut them in half so the planter boxes would be 3 feet tall.

To prevent the boxes from bulging when full of dirt, we also added support in-between the posts.

Once the pickets were all on, we lined the inside with water proof landscape fabric.

Now came the fun part! Staining! I chose to use Penetrating Timber Oil Semi-Transparent in Walnut. I loved the rich brown color. I didn't want a solid color that would cover most of the wood grain. This was perfect!

It was really easy to pour. No mess!

Because I had so much surface area to cover, I chose to spray the stain on the boxes. It went fast and gave it a nice even coat. Make sure to wear clothes you can get dirty, gloves, and a face mask.

To save money, we filled the planter boxes ⅔ full of the dirt we dug up when leveling the ground. It also saved us from having to haul it away. The top portion was filled with top soil and compost we purchased locally.

We dug a trench in front of the planter boxes since the dirt was so rocky. The trench also got filled with the new dirt and compost to become a flowerbed. I planted one of my favorite flowers, zinnias! Don’t they look amazing next to the beautiful walnut stain? I love that you can still see the gorgeous wood grain of the cedar.

I built a basic frame for the gates and covered them on one side with pickets. I played around until I got the arch just right and penciled it in darker so I could cut it with the jigsaw. I didn’t bother to sand the boxes, but I knew the gate would be touched more than the planters so I went ahead and lightly sanded them.

I decided to paint the gate blue to match all the interior doors of my house. I used the same navy color that I love. I even bought reproduction crystal knobs just like the doors in my house.

We planted raspberries in the planters and I can’t wait for them to fill in more and be covered in juicy berries!

After I watered the transplanted raspberries, I noticed how well the water beaded up showing how well Thompson’s WaterSeal protects the wood. I'm confident they are going to hold up really well over time.

I love how the planters double as a fence! If you remember our backyard plans I share awhile ago, behind the planters will be storage for all the things we don't want to see like wood piles and compost bins.

Now that all the hard work is done, I can’t wait to sit here and read while I enjoy the view of the whole backyard.

It feels so nice to have such a big project checked off the list at the beginning of summer knowing I will have the rest of the year to enjoy it.

What outdoor projects do you have planned this summer? I'd love to hear!

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This post was sponsored by Thompson’s WaterSeal but all ideas and opinions are all my own.

Ever since my first trip to Trader Joe's a couple weeks ago, I have been wanting to go back for some more fresh flowers. A post about vases was the perfect excuse! It is probably a good thing it is an hour away or I would spend most of my money there.

Vase 1: Hanging Vase

This first vase I decided to make round. You could make it any shape you want really. After tracing a bowl on the wood, I cut out the 9 inch circle. I then traced another circle in the center. It was 4 inches. Drill a hole large enough that your jigsaw blade can fit then use the jigsaw to cut out the center circle. Sand it all really well with a 220 grit sandpaper.

I stained it the same color as the peg board and boxes in my new office closet. I love it!

Once the stain was dry, I drilled three small holes evenly around the circle and threaded faux leather lacing through it. I knotted the ends so it wouldn't pull back through the small holes.

I still can't believe these giant sunflowers were only a few bucks at Trader Joe's!

Vase 2: Gold Legs

For this one, I cut out an 8 inch by 8 inch square. I traced a 5 inch circle in the center. Just like the one above, I drilled a hole big enough for the jigsaw blade to fit. I cut out the hole and sanded the whole thing really well.

I had a 1 inch wooden dowel I was going to use for the legs so I used a 1 inch drill bit to drill holes in each corner. Measure and mark it before drilling.

I cut the dowel into 2 ½ inch pieces for the legs. I didn't want to too tal. It just needed to be tall enough that the bottom of the vase wouldn't touch the table top. Think pot bellied pig verses gangly teenage boy.

I stained it using Early American by Minwax. The legs I spray painted gold. I added some wood glue and pushed the legs into the holes. I waited for the glue to dry before turning it over and adding the vase.

I love that you can see the legs on the top! It reminds me of the entry way  bench I built.

I ended up liking the 5 inch size hole better than the 4 inch hole.

Vase 3: Geometric!

I started out by cutting three 8 inch squares out of plywood. You can use any wood, I just chose to use scrap wood for these vases. Once I had the square cut, I measured and marked about an inch and a half from each corner, drew a line, and using the miter saw chopped off the corners. It helps to have clamps to hold the wood in pace on the base of the saw. This created the octagonal shape.

Like the hanging vase, I drilled a large hole for the saw blade to fit through. I used the jigsaw to cut out a center circle in two of the pieces.

You will end up with two that have center circles and one that does not. You can either use wood glue to attach them together or a brad nailer. Putty it really well and when dry, sand it smooth.

I painted it my favorite cobalt blue!

It looks so cheery on the shelf!

Real gerbera daisies are so perfect that they look fake even in person! They are such a great cut flower.

Which one was your favorite? Which one do you think was mine?

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Shane was hesitant at first to take down the cabinets (if you recall from our He Said She Said video). Heck, even I was wondering if we would miss the cabinets. But now that it is all said and done, we are both SO GLAD we just went for it!

I bought the brackets for these shelves from IKEA (which I spray painted matte black) about 9 months ago and had a very specific look I was going for. When I realized that the opening was bigger than I thought and that regular boards were too thin to fit correctly inside of the brackets, I had to come up with a plan B. The space where the wood goes into the bracket is 1" and even though boards say they are 1" by whatever, they are really about ¾ inches thick due to them being sanded down. I could have used stair treads since they are 1 inch thick but they are rounded and I really wanted a more rustic look. I headed to a local lumber yard that sells rough cut lumber and picked out some pine boards that would be thick enough as well as having the beautiful saw marks that you can see well below.

I have four shelves all together. There are two on each side of the window above my sink.  I still have to go through all my cabinets and the pantry and figure out where everything will go, but I sure have had fun playing around with styling them!

Shelf Tutorial

This was my first time using a biscuit joiner and I have to say it was really easy and I am now HOOKED! I cut the boards to the legnth they needed to be and then cut 45 degree cuts to make an L shape. In order to connect them I needed to cut out grooves for the biscuits.

First I laid out the boards and drew a line across the seam where I wanted a biscuit to go. Every 6 inches or so is good.

There are three sizes of biscuits. I chose the largest (20) given the size of the project. I lined up the pencil mark to the line on the joiner and cut the wood (see arrow below).

Pull the trigger and get the blade up to full speed before pushing the blade into the wood.

If you are working with a large piece of wood it is best to clamp it to your work space.

In case you are not aware of what a biscuit is, it looks like this. It is compressed and once it gets wet from the wood glue it expands and makes a tight joint.

Once the shelves were all glued and had dried, I stained them using Provincial from Minwax. If you are a long time reader you are probably thinking "What? You didn't use Dark Walnut?"  Yes, I have been a long time lover of walnut but have been branching out lately. Plus I didn't want the shelves too dark since I wanted to see the saw marks and other imperfections. Provincial and Early American are my go to stains for a medium brown.

Make sure to use the wood conditioner before staining. It makes a big difference! It will make it so the wood accepts the stain more evenly and it isn't splotchy. I talk more about that in my entry table post.

After I stained, I sealed them so they would be easy to wipe down.  As far as the installation goes, I knew the brackets on the end would not be enough especially at the corner.  I have used the type of floating shelf bracket like this before (see below) and wanted to do something similar to help distribute the weight.  I couldn't use these exact ones because they were too big so I opted to use really big, really long screws. I drew a line where the shelf would go and then screwed several screws along each line making sure there were some close to the corner. In our case, these walls are all exterior walls so they are pure brick and concrete. But if they had been regular walls I would have screwed into the studs.

Normally I would just drill a hole into the shelf that was the same diameter as the bracket/rod and then slide the shelf on, but because I was pushing the shelf into the corner I had to notch out a larger section. However far out your rod bracket (or screw) sticks out from the wall is how long and deep your notch has to be.

(Source: Natural Accents)

The stack of plates alone weighs quite a bit and the shelves have held up really well.

I am quite sure it will wear off, but I have been more accepting of having to do dishes because I can stare at my cute shelves :)

Would you ever do open shelves? Do you already have them? I am curious how people like them after living with them for a long time. Leave your thoughts below!

I teamed up with Minwax to bring you this post. The ideas, thoughts, and tips are all my own! Follow Minwax on Facebook for even more project ideas.

Since the crate was going to be up on a shelf and you wouldn't see the joints, I decided to go the easy route and only cut two ends at a 45 degree angle. If this were a piece of furniture or something you would see the corners on, I would have figured out the angles and done mitered cuts on all corners.

To make a bottom simply set the triangle on a piece of wood and trace the inside with a jigsaw and nail and glue it into place.

After gluing and nailing it together I sanded it smooth. I wiped off the dust and then stained it using Golden Oak from Minwax. I wanted it to be a lighter but warm color.

It looked great just stained and I could have left it as is, but I really wanted that vintage-y feel of an old crate.

When looking at examples of old crates online the main colors of the stamped lettering seemed to be blue, black, and red. I went with red and black and I luckily had those colors of stain on hand.

I cut a stencil out of vinyl using my Silhouette cutting machine.

Using a foam brush I gently dabbed the stain on and then used a paper towel to remove the excess.

Once it dried I lightly sanded it with 22o grit sand paper to get that aged look. I like to set pots inside of crate rather than plant them in the crate itself. That way I can easily take out one pot at a time to use the herbs or to water as needed.

I will be revealing my finished dining room later this week. I am thrilled with how it all came together!

I had built a crate planter and I wanted it to make a statement, not just blend in. I don't have all the colors that are available but these are the ones I grabbed and had to choose from.

After testing them on some scrap wood, I chose the Navy Blue but I was really torn between the blue, coral, and yellow.

Planter Tutorial

The planter is very simple to build. Decide how big you would like to make it and cut some 1x4s to that length. Drill some pocket holes using a Kreg Jig. Half of the boards will have pocket holes that will connect the corners together and half will have holes drilled down to connect the boards together. This will make more sense as you see the following steps.

Screw the boards together at the corners to create a square.

Repeat the process until you have as many square frames as you want. The more you have, the taller your crate will be.

Then you will screw each of the square frames together through the downward pointing pocket holes.

Creating the bottom of the planter can happen one of two ways. One option: You can trace the outside of the crate onto some plywood and use the pocket holes to attach the bottom to the crate. The downside is you will see the board used for the bottom. Second Option: You can trace the crate on the inside (so the bottom piece will fit snugly on the inside of the crate) and use a nail gun to attach the bottom. You will need to fill the nail holes with sandable, stainable putty.

If you are going to add dirt to this and put the plant directly in this, you will need to add a drainage hole. But I prefer to keep the plant in a regular pot and set the plant inside the crate without a drainage hole. This way when I water the plant, if any water seeps out the bottom, it stays in the crate and doesn't go on my floor.

I love that I can have a fun, saturated color but still see the wood grain. If bold and bright are not your style, they have a ton of other colors to pick from. The colored stains are water based and are mixed in the store for you.

Would you ever stain something a fun color? What would you stain?

Did you notice my books? Does it make you twitch to have books not alphabetized? We are going to dive into that tomorrow!

I received product and compensation from Minwax for this post but the ideas and opinions are all mine.

Here is what it looked like when I hauled it out of the stall in my mom's barn.

And here it is all cleaned up.

 

 It needed a lot of TLC. It had a minor crack on the top, thumb tack holes along the front, and chunks missing. It also had a broken leg. I first addressed any repairs that needed to be made.  I put glue along the crack and let it sink in. Then I wiped it off with a damp paper towel.

 

 

Putting the large clamp on caused some of the glue to squeeze out so I wiped it again. I glued and clamped the broken leg too. I used a small C clamp.

The desk wasn't the best ever made. The drawers were held together with only 2 nails on each side. Needless to say, they weren't very strong. I re-enforced them with my brad nail gun. I looked around the desk and found some other spots to re-enforce as well. Really I just like to find reasons to use it. It is my favorite tool!

 

 

I let the glue dry for a day before I took the clamps off and sanded it. I was lucky because it was pretty much all flat. I did most of the sanding with my hand sander. There were only a few spots I did by hand. You need to remove the old finish so the wood will accept the new stain. If you have something that you want to refinish and it would be hard to sand, you can use gel stain. I have used that several times with very good results. I use Minwax's gel stain. You can apply it over existing finishes. It is thick and sticky. It would be best to practice on something else first to get the hang of it.

 

 

 

It is all naked and ready for a new look! I almost forgot to mention that I used putty to fill in any small cracks or nail holes. Putty, let dry, and then sand. Use stainable, paintable, sandable wood putty. I used the natural color because it was outside and so was I. I should have used the darker colored putty (it was ALL the way inside ). This putty is stainable, but to a point. That is why they have a darker color. I added more stain to the puttied parts and it worked out fine, but in retrospect I should have got off my big behind and got the darker putty!

 

 

 

In a situation like this, I use oil based stains. This wood was old and dried out. The oil in the stain helps the wood. Plus it dries slower than waterbased stains and gives you more time to work at getting an even finish. Waterbased stains sink in fast, especially with dry or porous (soft) wood. You can also use a wood conditioner before applying the stain. It is sold in cans just like the stain and is milky white. I always use foam brushes too. There aren't any brush marks and it makes for easy clean up. Just toss them in the garbage!

 

 

 

I let the stain dry for a day and a half. It needs to be completely dry and not sticky at all.

Then you can add the polyurethane. Use it in a well ventilated area of course. It brings the wood to life and protects it. I use Minwax's Fast Drying Clear Satin finsih.

 

 

 

Isn't she a beaut??? All I did for the drawer pulls was scrub them in some soapy water. I love the patina on them.

 

After I made my deadline (two days early!) I thought "I should relax."

I tried that.

For two days.

It was hard.

Then I decided that I needed to put the house back together and shove some of the extra furniture I had accumulated into the basement (otherwise known as my future bedroom). I deep cleaned my poor kitchen that had functioned as a florist shop, woodworking shop, potting shed, and art studio. Then I started cleaning my bathroom.

And this happened.

I had one of those "If I have to dust this ledge one more time..." moments.

The beadboard has lived a good life. The previous owners put it up and I stained it shortly after moving in. The gel stain held up wonderfully but I was tired of cleaning all the groves and was ready for a new look.

So I ripped it carefully off. We have lathe and plaster so this is what it looked.

I would apologize for the ugly cell phone pics but who am I kidding. They would look gross even if I had used a nice camera.

I made sure all the nails and glue were removed from the walls and plastered over it.

I also ripped off the molding I added to the vanity years ago. I am going to strip it down and stain it. I am also going to strip the paint off the window molding and baseboards since there are 70+ years of paint layers and you can tell. I will repaint them after I get the inch thick old paint off of them.

After the joint compound dried, I sanded it smooth so it matched the finish on the upper walls.

I moved the bathroom stuff out first....

I was in the middle of sanding when Shane came home. He raised his eyebrows and said "Wow." And that was it. Bless him. Someone really needs to give him a medal.

If you remember the up bath saga at all you will recall that almost 3 years ago we had to rip out some tile and fix some pipes and water damage. We have not had the money to replace all the wall tile, the tub, and the floor tile, so we have not had a tub for that whole time. I had to hurry and finish the down bathroom so we could have a place to shower.

I still don't have the budget for this bathroom project but I am going to try the whole Field of Dreams thing and say "If I demo it, the funds will come."

And then I will pray while my eyes, fingers and toes are all crossed. And maybe toss a few pennies in a fountain for good luck.

For now I will finish painting the bathroom since I can afford paint. I will work out the rest later. But I have a four year old who doesn't even remember playing in the tub and that makes me feel sad. So this just got moved up the priority list.

At least until I demo something else.....

So much for relaxing!

Have you ever spontaneously demolished something? Or started a big DIY project on a whim? Please say yes. Then I will be validated and I will know we were meant to be DIY besties :) I would love to hear your stories!!!